You probably already know the buford fly if you've ever spent a cold morning chasing muskies or pike with a fly rod. It's one of those patterns that just looks "right" the moment it hits the water, and honestly, it has changed the way a lot of us approach big predatory fish. Created by the legendary Brad Bohen, this fly isn't just a bunch of feathers and hair lashed to a hook; it's a highly engineered tool designed to move water and provoke a reaction from fish that have seen it all.
If you're new to the world of big streamers, the first thing you'll notice about a buford fly is its massive, flat face. It's a bit of a departure from the sleek, baitfish-imitating streamers most of us started with. But that big, bulky head of deer hair is exactly what makes it so deadly. It's built to push a ton of water, creating a vibration that fish can feel long before they ever see the fly.
Why the Buford Fly Changes the Game
The magic of the buford fly really comes down to physics. Most streamers are designed to slice through the water, but the Buford is designed to resist it. That flat deer-hair head acts like a parachute or a bucking bronco, depending on how you strip it. When you give it a hard tug, the head pushes against the water, and when you stop, the fly doesn't just sit there. It kicks to the side, stalls, and lingers in the strike zone.
This "hang time" is what drives muskies and big pike absolutely crazy. Predators are often looking for an easy meal, something that looks wounded or disoriented. When a buford fly darts to the left and then just hovers for a second, it looks like a baitfish that's lost its mind. That's usually when the "follow" turns into a "strike." If you've ever had a massive fish follow your fly right to the boat only to turn away at the last second, you know how frustrating it is. The Buford is designed to stop that from happening by forcing the fish to make a decision.
The Art of Tying a Proper Buford
I won't lie to you—tying a buford fly can be a bit of a mess. If your tying desk doesn't look like a deer exploded on it by the time you're finished, you probably didn't use enough hair. The core of the fly is usually built on a stout, wide-gap hook, sometimes with a trailer hook if you're feeling spicy.
The back half of the fly is all about movement. Most tiers use long bucktail, some flash, and maybe a few saddle hackles to give it some length and "wiggle." But the front half? That's where the work happens. You're essentially spinning and packing deer hair to create a dense, firm collar.
Shaping the Head
Once you have that massive clump of deer hair on the hook, it's time to play barber. You want to trim the hair so it's flat on the front and tapers back toward the body. Some guys like a perfectly round face, while others prefer a more wedge-like shape. The key is to keep it wide enough to push water. If you trim it too thin, you lose the "kick" that makes the buford fly so special.
I've found that using a fresh razor blade is way better than using scissors for this part. You want clean, sharp cuts. It takes some practice to get the proportions right, but once you see that fly dance in the water, you'll realize why the extra effort at the vise is worth it.
Choosing Your Colors
When it comes to colors, you can go as wild or as natural as you want. A classic black and purple buford fly is a staple for a reason—it creates a massive silhouette that fish can see in almost any water clarity. On the other hand, a "firetiger" pattern (green, yellow, and orange) is great for aggressive fish in stained water. Personally, I'm a big fan of white and gray combos because they look so much like a struggling sucker or shad.
How to Fish the Buford Properly
You can't just cast a buford fly out and reel it back in like you're fishing for bass. Well, you could, but you'd be missing out on the best part of the fly's action. This fly requires a bit of "soul" in the retrieve.
You want to use a heavy-duty setup, usually a 10-weight or 11-weight rod, because these flies are not aerodynamic. They're basically like casting a wet sock. You'll also want a sinking tip or a full intermediate line to help pull that buoyant deer hair under the surface.
The Strip-Strip-Pause Cadence
The most effective way to fish a buford fly is with a rhythmic strip-strip-pause cadence. The first two strips should be fast and aggressive to get the fly moving and pushing water. This gets the fish's attention. Then, you have to pause. That pause is when the fly does its signature side-to-side glide.
Most of your hits will happen during that split second of stillness. It's the most nerve-wracking part of musky fishing, honestly. You're watching your fly, waiting for the shadow to appear, and trying not to trout-set when the water explodes.
The Figure-Eight
Because the buford fly is so good at enticing follows, you absolutely must finish every cast with a figure-eight at the side of the boat. Since the fly has so much bulk, it moves a lot of water even at low speeds during your figure-eight. Keep the fly deep and keep it moving. Sometimes, that change in direction at the very end is the only thing that will trigger a strike from a fish that's been stalking your fly for 40 feet.
Equipment Considerations
Don't try to throw a buford fly on your 7-weight trout rod. It won't end well, and you'll probably end up with a fly in the back of your head. You need a rod with some serious backbone to turn over that deer hair.
A stiff leader is also a must. Most guys use a heavy fluorocarbon bite tippet or a wire leader if they're specifically targeting pike or muskies. Since the buford fly is designed to dart side-to-side, a limp leader will often get tangled in the fly's own hair or hooks. A stiff leader helps kick the fly back out and keeps everything tidy during those aggressive strips.
Final Thoughts on the Buford
There's something incredibly satisfying about catching a fish on a fly you tied yourself, especially one as labor-intensive as the buford fly. It's a fly that demands your attention, both at the vise and on the water. It's not a "lazy" fly. You have to work it, you have to cast it with purpose, and you have to be ready for things to get violent at any moment.
Whether you're hitting the legendary musky waters of Wisconsin or just looking for a big pike in a local pond, having a few of these in your box is a literal game-changer. It's big, it's loud, and it's obnoxious—which is exactly what a big predator wants. So, grab some deer hair, clear your afternoon, and start tying. Just make sure you have a vacuum handy for all the hair you're about to trim off.